"a-DEE-o Greca" .............Ree's POV

We're on our final Greek ferry trip - back to Athens to fly out to Rome and our next adventure.

We're ready to head off. Although I can understand why people return here over and over again and how the laconic, laid-back life of the Greek islands is highly infectious, we have other fish to fry and we're getting antsy - off to see more of what is on offer. It's been 2 weeks since we left home.

Paros Island is currently on our West and the craggy rocks, scrubby green bush and white-washed houses are gliding past. Like most the islands we've visited, the antiquarian ruins have been largely left to their own devices, with the best hill-top locations set aside for the iconic white or blue domed churches - some grand, some tiny, but often built in the most difficult of spaces.

 

I find Greece full of juxtapositions. They have, over the years, accomplished extraordinary architectural and engineering feats. The entrance to the Temple of Apollo on Naxos still stands. A marble structure on a rocky headland, bearing the brunt of whatever weather has been served up for more than 2500 years. 300 metres away is a fence made of corrugated iron, a few rocks, some chicken wire and the odd star picket. There are traces of Venetian and neo-classical grandeur everywhere, mostly not restored or maintained, as well as hundreds of quite plain looking cement structures in various states of construction - very often seemingly abandoned. But there are also charming examples of the "typical" constructions everywhere, built in that beautiful Greek style - smooth, white, rounded edges, contrasted with trimmings in the blue of their beloved Agean Sea and wonderful stone detail in the local marble and slate. Bougainvillea laces across balconies and climbs up the pristine walls in a seemingly random pattern but looks too perfect to be real. There are selected details everywhere, from the choice of window shutters to door handles and decorated flower pots. Whole streets and laneways look as though they have been dressed for a movie set - but the main roads are covered in litter. Restaurant owners take enormous pride in their food and then smoke while they serve it up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The charm of this place, is partly due to the "what the?" moments we have had. The mixture of amazing and bemusing. Where Dubai seems largely polished, shined and prepared for the tourist and left us feeling unattached, the Greek islands put their best out with their worst and their sincerity shines.

 

We have been lucky to be here in the lead up to Greek Easter. The islanders of Naxos are quite religious and the Friday afternoon we arrived the church bells in the main square of Hora were just beginning their call. This was the last Friday before Easter and a special service - 3 hours long. The next two mornings we were woken by the peel of bells from large and small churches around the town and the locals were all dressed in their best coats and boots as they strolled to the morning service. The shops are full of Easter traditions - cakes and treats, special chocolates, decorative eggs and easter candles. At Easter children are given long decorated candles, often with small gifts attached to them, to light over the Easter holidays. They are also given chocolates, clothes and toys - but the candles are particularly significant and were hanging in shop windows all over town.

Large chocolate eggs - some filled with macaroons

We happened on a toy shop down a side street that had the most amazing candles - as well as gorgeous toys for people of all ages. The couple who own it travel far and wide to find their wares and its full of the quirky and the fabulous. It's the kind of shop that would have people squeezing into it at Claremont Quarter - but here it was just us. Zoe fell in love with the lamps in the front window - all individual works of art made by a Greek artist. We tinkered inside for about 40 minutes - trying everything out and wishing we could bring everything home.

 

Before we go, I need to mention the lovely people we have met along our Greek journey. For me, it is always the bonds you make, however transient, that give you connection with a place. We have been lucky, from the warm and helpful hotel staff in Heraklion (Mary and Manos) and Santorini (Yiota and Bogdan) to shop staff, cafe owners and locals on the street. Of course the cynic in me could put this down to customer relations, but the girl we met getting off the ferry in Naxos not only called our hotel to get directions but then walked us 2/3 of the way there to make sure we were on the right track and then gave us written tips for finding the best pastries on the island. After breakfast this morning, at our favourite spot in the main square, the lovely matriarch who has watched over us each visit came to give Zoe and I a proper hug goodbye. (And yes i still had my wallet at the end of it). Gotta love these people.

The kids have been so great with trying out phrases and attempting communications. I'm amazed at their confidence and know there is no way I would have been as gutsy at 8 or 11. They have mastered the basic greetings and niceties and Drew is particularly good at making sure we all use them! I think when we get to Rome they will be even better, with their school italian under their belts.

Might be time for a mid-morning hot chocolate... Adio ("Ah-dee-o") Greek Islands.

 

 

 

 

 

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